The Art of Camouflage

Here is a really good playlist of camouflage videos. Check it out, use it for training for yourself, your family, or your group.

More on Training Concepts

Some things I have thought about recently and will be adding or expounding upon in training are the use of camouflage, micro terrain, and stealthy movements. These topics seem simple and easy, but how many of you can say that you have mastered the techniques? How many can say that they can move miles through difficult terrain undetected by all methods of detection?

With that said, I think we should be concentrating, and practicing/training on movements while totally concealed. Patience is needed, as well as attention to detail and knowledge of how to move properly. The use of camouflage clothing as well as "gille" type suits/ponchos and light weight gear that is situated on your sides not on your front is desired. If you have a bunch of crap on your front, you will never be able to low crawl effectively. Take a look at how the Viet Cong were equipped, and see that they did not have a ton of crap all over them. They were lightly equipped, and highly trained, which makes sense for a fighter that is technologically inferior than his adversary.

We will be in the same boat as the Viet Cong, and will need to equip ourselves similarly, but with the help of much more modern and effective equipment than they had. We will not be effective at the style of fighting we will have to do to be effective if we equip ourselves like we are in the Army, or Marine Corps. We will not (under most scenarios) be able to have plate carriers with plates, mags, packs, and all the crap that modern soldiers carry with them. We need to give up that idea, we are not the Army! We need to be a highly trained, lightly equipped, fast moving, clandestine, and mobile guerilla force.

I recommend everyone get good quality camouflage clothing in an effective pattern (my favorites are A-Tacs FG, and Kryptek Highlander/Mandrake for my AO in Washington State), also a gille type suit, like the one on the right side of this page second from the top. I know it is not perfect, but it is a good suit, I have one, and it works well. When performing non CQB tactical training I wear one very often, and would wear one for actual situations.

All the normal stuff applies to covert movement, such as not silhouetting yourself, following the terrain lines, use of military crest, or the very bottom of deep crevasses.

This video is old, but does an excellent job showing a lot of these concepts.





-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Gear for the American Patriot: The Tactical Patriot Store
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Advanced Training Vids

I am posting more videos lately because I want you guys to watch these, pick up on some of the points, see the differences in them, and then we will be building upon that during further posts on Advanced Training Tactics. So please watch, think about what they are saying, compare them against each other, see how they might fit together, then think about how you could incorporate these ideas into your training.


This one is old, but makes some very valid points:


Sorry, out of time today, more to follow. Lot more.

Also I wanted to say thank you for you guys that visit my blog, and especially those who come back! If you like what you read here, please pass it on to your friends and acquaintances.

Advanced training

Once you have gained a basic proficiency with the concepts of "Shoot, Move, and Communicate", then you are ready to move on to more advanced topics, and ideas. With that said, I recommend the following be added to your group/personal/family training plan:

Advanced camouflage techniques
Use of Micro Terrain features
Night fighting (proper use of night vision, yours, not the electronic type)
Silhouetting
Use of shadows
Crossing danger areas covertly
Hand to hand combat
Use of surprise
Recce
Obstacle crossing
Movement through gaps
Exploiting breakthroughs
When to pull back
Developing your senses
Hit and run tactics
Shell scrapes and fighting positions
Clandestine movement
Use of natural formations/plant life

I will have much more on this topic in future posts.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Gear for the American Patriot: The Tactical Patriot Store
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ghillie suits

Ghillie suits are a must have for the patriot that intends to stand up when needed. If you are part of a Militia, a patriot group, OK CPT, OK QRF, III%er, or any other form of resistance, then you will need to have one of these. A Ghillie offers much better concealment than regular clothing in most environments. This is a good article I found over on the Survival Blog that I thought would be very good to share with you guys.

Ghillie Up, by Molon Labe

From a young age, I’ve been fascinated with hunters and snipers alike who stalk the wilds with a bushy cloak that conceals their location, like a ghost who conforms to his terrain and disappears in plain view. And so since an early teen I’ve researched, constructed and eventually refined the art of personal camouflage by way of the ghillie suit. The truth is that nothing can make you truly invisible and that even the best camouflage can be compromised with movement. However, through constant research and development both for myself, friends and eventually building ghillie making into a side business, I’ve learned many helpful facts that can help you in deciding if you want to add a ghillie suit or similar variant to your Bugout Bag (BOB).

First, we must ask, “Why ghillie up at all?” What are the benefits and downsides, and how can they respectively be maximized and minimized? Back in the 19th Century, the Scottish hunting guides and game wardens found it helped them to stalk closer to their prey when they wore burlap bags around their head and shoulders, which disrupted their distinctly “human” shape. From that point forward, increasingly greater forms of concealment were adopted by many long range marksman and snipers, and their three dimensional outfits became known as “ghillie” suits in honor of these guides and wardens who were known as Gillies. The great thing about three dimensional (3D) camouflage is that it disrupts a person’s outline and can confuse the prey’s depth perception as well, lending to the misconception that some of the wearer’s body is further or closer than it actually is. But more than this, the fringes of the outfit will, or at least should, if constructed properly, sway with the breeze. These things all contribute to make the 3D outfit much more effective than any two dimensional piece of camouflage. As much as [Woodland pattern or Multicam pattern] battledress uniforms (BDUs) may blend in with the surrounding environment, they still has noticeable edges that stand out much more plainly than the edges of the ghillie suit, which from a distance seem to fade gradually from its fringes to the background.

What camouflage must do in order to be effective is to look like anything but a human, rifle or any other equipment that you bring into the wilderness. At best it will look exactly like the surrounding foliage, but at least it should look like something other than human or man-made.

One of the greatest benefits of the ghillie is that it will disrupt your silhouette, which is extremely important, both in broad daylight and especially at night. Ask yourself, how do you distinguish an animal at night from the rest of the landscape? Unless you flash a light on them and see two reflecting eyes, it’s most commonly by distinguishing a solid shape that does not resemble nature against the background. That, and of course, movement. And although a ghillie suit cannot hide your location when moving quickly–especially transverse to your target’s field of vision–it will save you from noticeably not swaying with the breeze when everything around you is. It also can play with your target’s depth perception and can, especially with shadows, make you to appear dispersed and in that sense, human and animal eyes will skip right over you without noticing anything, as you will simply blend into the landscape. All these things will greatly aid in keeping your presence hidden. But what are some downsides?

Traditionally, ghillies were never worn except when absolutely necessary because they can be very hot and extremely restrictive if not constructed properly. They can be heavy, because the classic material used is burlap or jute, which not only will add several pounds to your clothing but will soak up any moisture like a sponge and make you feel like lead when it rains. And if you are planning on discharging a weapon around it at all, you will want to treat it with flame retardant when using burlap or jute. Yes, this makes it even heavier. Yes, this may have to be redone after it comes in contact with moisture. But let’s not forget that a bundle of clothing that adds significant depth from the sole of your foot to the top of your head is hard to keep in a packable bundle that will squeeze into your bag with all your other “necessary” gear. Because the simple fact is that if you are traveling any distance through a forest at any speed except for a slow stalk, you won’t be wearing a traditional ghillie.

Still, if it greatly aids in your concealment, are there ways to mitigate or bypass some of these downsides? Absolutely. Rule number one is that if you are going to be using this for anything more than purely recreational use and don’t want to be itching and being roasted alive in a heavy, restrictive outfit, then don’t use burlap or jute at all. I say this because I’ve been told by a current U.S. Army sniper instructor that Army snipers haven’t used conventional full ghillie suits in over 30 years, because when the material sheds away (and it will) it will leave a trail behind that bespeaks only one thing: “Sniper”. This has led to the discovery and death of a few snipers downrange. Even if the enemy doesn’t see a sniper team, they’ll call in mortars, artillery, a tracking team with dogs or anything available to them to obliterate or search out any area that may have a sniper.

So the question is, if 3D camouflage is so good, but discovery by its trail of shed fibers so dangerous, then what is the solution? In 2007, the US Army developed a synthetic thread that has completely replaced burlap and jute. This new thread is fire retardant, waterproof, water repellent, rot proof, mildew resistant, non-allergenic, and is considerably stronger and lighter than burlap or jute. The other great thing about this synthetic thread is that you won’t need nearly as much of it to get the job done and does not trap nearly as much heat, which is a real bonus when you’re down prone in the summer sun for hours on end.

Regardless of what material you decide to use for your ghillie, it will need to be securely fastened to a wearable outfit. This is most often done by tying it to a form of netting that has been either glued or sewn onto the desired outfit. This is effective, but in my opinion is not efficient. In my area we have four distinct seasons with at least three distinct colors schemes, and if I matched any one of them I would stand out in the other two. Remember this is three dimensional camouflage; it either matches the surrounding colors or it doesn’t. There’s no two dimensional magic you can create to deceive the eye like Multicam or similar patterns. This means that I either have to have three different suits in my closet or I can create a method to attach the right color scheme to a single outfit, and with this one outfit, I can have all the bells and whistles to make it the most comfortable, rugged, cool, and functional as I can. This is the approach that I’ve taken.

Now, how to do this? What I’ve done for my personal ghillie suit is to use Shoe Goo to attach earth tone 550 military grade parachute cord (“paracord”) onto the back side of the jacket, pants, and the top of my boonie hat. This was done in a crisscross grid-like pattern with about four inches between intersections. Onto this I’ve tied more than a dozen ½-inch quick-release plastic buckles–the same type which you find on many survival bracelets. And then using fish net with the synthetic thread tied evenly to it, I’ve cut out the outline of my ghillie jacket, pants and hat. To this I’ve tied on corresponding buckles which clip into those tied onto the parachute cord grid pattern. Now I have an easy method to apply the “ghillie cover” to my ghillie base. When not wearing the ghillie cover I can stow it in my pack and merely wear the ghillie base.

BTW, the base of my ghillie suit is a set of Multicam pattern fatigues so that I can easily blend into most places during every season except winter. However, when the ghillie suit is large enough to allow warmer clothes under it–as mine is–you can also attach a synthetic thread covering with pure white thread. This, although less than perfect, is very effective when you consider that the Multicam base bleeds through in areas and creates a “break up” result. A very helpful feature especially when you consider that solid white does not blend into any snow land environment except the North Pole.

The Ghillie Poncho
But the other approach is to not have a full ghillie suit at all and instead use a simple ghillie poncho. A ghillie poncho is usually constructed using durable but ultra-light fishing net and can be thrown over your existing clothes, tactical gear, etc. This is very useful, if you are going to be traveling through two different environments such as a forest where dark green and brown are key and a very green or very tan field, you may want to pack both options, and with the advent of ghillie ponchos which weigh only 2 to 3 pounds and can squeeze into a compact space, this is now a viable option.

Now, there are two major kinds of ghillie suits, and the same principle applies to ponchos; the soldier’s ghillie and the sniper’s ghillie. The difference between these is simply that the soldier’s ghillie has full 360 degree coverage front and back, top and bottom. Whereas the sniper’s ghillie suit keeps the chest and front of the legs (and often arms) slicked out to better facilitate crawling low to the ground. Both are effective but one tends towards the sniper’s uses better than the other. Bow hunters have no need to be low crawling and will prefer to have the soldier’s ghillie.

Now when it comes to getting your own, there are a few different options. With some supplies and a little creative thinking, thread and needle, you can create your own and make it with as many added features as you care to have. Among these are creating vents in the back of the jacket, pants or hat for better ventilation, putting more rugged material such as 1,000 Denier Cordura fabric on the elbow and knee sections, “slicking out” the front of jacket and pants for low crawling, adding a hydration pack, adding pockets, add paracord thumb and boot loops which can keep the ghillie from snaking up on your arms and legs when low crawling or reverse-low crawling, putting in rain proof sections, or any other enhancement you can dream up that could aid you for your particular area and mission.

But if you opt out of do-it-yourself (DIY), or buying from a ghillie store you’ll find a four-piece ghillie (that is: jacket, pants, head cover and rifle wrap) off the shelf that comes from China, at nearly every sporting goods store. And if your purpose is bow hunting or paintball, you’ll be hard pressed to find a less expensive solution. But if your life may be on the line, you won’t want something quite so flimsy and easy to track. Trust me, I have one and the thread will tear out all too easily when you brush by a limb or bush. These, although made with the new synthetic thread, are sewn on in bunches and not hand tied. In my opinion, this is worse should you brush up against anything in the wild, as it will come right out with a tug and will not biodegrade.

Now what should one look for in a ghillie suit? Number one it that it has to conceal you. It should be of the right color [to match your local foliage] and be constructed to fit your purposes. Secondly, it should be rugged. These suits, depending on the type of material chosen, often have the uncanny ability to reach out and grab every twig and edge of a bush within five feet. (This in itself will aid to the natural look and help to conceal you.) It should also be functional to your purposes. Ghillie suits are most often used only when hiding in a static location or while slow stalking. This however means that for most of the distance that you may need to trek through the woods, you won’t want to be wearing one. In keeping with this principle, I always look for something adequate for the job that will easily be carried, which means: compact and light. This will be situational dependent, but often times you may not have the need or space to carry a full-blown ghillie suit, which is one reason ghillie ponchos have become more popular.

Finally, how should we look at ghillies? If you are someone who puts their life on the line for those you love and go down range, I believe you should look at ghillies as another piece of kit. Again, it is something situational dependent, but mandatory to have ready to take, should you be able to take advantage of it. Whether you are a sniper, solider, or just a prepper it is advantageous and often times critical to be concealed. Ghillies are perhaps one of the best tools to deceive the human eye into believing that it sees nothing more than an uninteresting clump of nature.

Whether you construct one yourself, pick one up from a shop or shell out the cash to get a custom design from an online store, realize each design has advantages and some disadvantages. However, I must say, if you decide to take the next step in the art of camouflage, then you should train with it as you do the rest of your kit. If you simply buy one and put it aside to use on The Day but never use it when you train, then it will be an unnecessary frustration when you finally do, and you won’t be able to maximize the benefits as you should.

https://survivalblog.com/ghillie-up-by-molon-labe/

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Equip yourself for the troubled times ahead: The Tactical Patriot Store
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

What to wear in a post event world

So the SHTF, you are part of the resistance, or you just want to survive. Should you wear camo, or civilian clothes? Well, this depends on how and what has happened, it depends on whether you are still integrated into society, or you are part of a group that heads for the hills and is part of an active resistance movement.

I feel that it is a personal choice, and one that you would be changing due to mission parameters, and the local atmosphere. If resistance groups are being hunted and fought by a professional force, then you have the option of using camo to increase your survivability in an active combat environment. But if you still desire to be part of society, then you would need to tailor your kit to take that into account.

One way you could go is to wear civilian work clothes in muted natural colors, then wear your kit over them. This way you could fight the fight, but then if need be ditch your gear and just walk down the street and fit in. Another option for this scenario is to wear what I call "Redneck Camo" which is any of the commercially available patterns that hunters wear. This type of clothing is effective in the woods, but also acceptable by society in many areas. If you were walking down the street in this type of camo, not many people would even give you a second glance.

So the options as I see it are: military camos, redneck camos, or muted civilian clothes. The way to go about this that I see as the most effective is to wear browns and greens in civilian style clothes (not tactical clothes) then wear a gillie suit or shroud and your kit when you are in the crap, or in an active combat situation. This approach gives you the ability to be effective in the fight, but then to ditch your kit and gillie, then just walk down the street for your exfiltration (exfil).

Another aspect of this debate is that if you and your group have a uniform standard and maybe a unit patch you will build esprit de corps, or pride in your unit, this is all good and fine pre-event, but when you are engaged as a fighting force living is the best morale builder. Another way to look at it is the ability to recognize your guys so you do not have any friendly fire incidents, well come on, if you are in a situation and you do not know the location of all of your buddies, then you should have had more training. We are not talking about large groups of soldiers with guys spread out all over the place. One of the good things about having a small unit is that you will be set up in a coordinated well planned ambush type of fight. If you are not, then you need to get the hell out of there as fast as you can.

I am not going to get into what is the best camo pattern, this battle is like the timely debate of AR vs AK, there is no right answer, just your personal preference. What I will say is that it is a good idea to not be wearing the same pattern that the forces you are fighting is wearing. I say this because of what I mentioned above about the ability to differentiate your guys from the enemy.

What you wear also depends on what you can afford and what you already have. If you can afford it, get the best stuff you can, but do not take money from your ammo, weapon, or survival gear budget. I feel that this should be the last priority, put your money into good gear, mags, ammo, good quality firearms, food, water, medical supplies and such. You can fight in whatever if you have to, but you could have the fanciest camo uniform and crappy gear and you will fail when your gear does, or when you do not have an item you need because you spent your money on the latest camo instead of where you should have spent it.

Remember you are a guerrilla style fighter, you hit hard, hit fast, and get the hell out of there. You are like a shadow in the mist, you confuse, instill terror, and break the enemy force down over time. You do not engage in full scale battles, you prefer small, planned, short duration fights that you pick the parameters of.

With that said, think about what is really important to you, set up your clothing, kit and weapons for realistic scenarios, be smart, think about the way that things will do down. Maybe you should have one of each of these types of clothing and then determine which ones you will employ based on the type of mission you will be conducting.

Remember to stay strong, keep up the fight, and never give up!

The Tactical Patriot online store

Hey readers, I just wanted to put a shout out for our new online store. There is tons of stuff here that will get you to where you want to be with your preparations.

The Tactical Patriot

Check it out, I know you will find something you can't live without. :)

Marksman/Observer Team (Tips)

Unit Organization 

The marksman/observer team consists of two men, both fully qualified marksmen, or sniper in some cases. If they are a Designated Marksman (DM) team then they will both be qualified DM, if they are a Sniper team, then they will both be qualified snipers.

In order to function effectively, however, one will shoot (the marksman/sniper) while the other watches the objective (the observer/spotter). These two will rotate duties on a regular basis during a engagement.  In most cases with sniper teams the observer/spotter is the more experienced member, because he is the one making all the wind, elevation, and other calls to the marksman/sniper, all the sniper has to do is ensure he agrees with the calls from his spotter then make the shot.

From this point on in this post I will be using the term marksman to refer to both a DM, and a sniper, and the term observer to refer to both the observer and the spotter.

Compatibility, a readiness to share, and a willingness to rotate duties are necessary qualities of the marksman/observer team members. The member with the most experience should be in charge, but his primary task is to educate his partner and elevate his skills on a par with his own so they can rotate jobs completely yet suffer no decline in compatibility. 

Duties and Responsibilities:

Marksman / Observer 

1. Writes Operations Order Obtains and prepares any special gear
2. Coordinates with other units Leads in normal movement
3. Leads in stalking movement Follows in stalking movement
4. Follows observer in normal movement Shares in the construction of the "hide"
5. Selects "hide" location Draws sketches and range cards
6. Detects and announces targets Shares range estimates with marksman
7. Adjusts scope for wind, range and angle Identifies targets by priority
8. Shares range estimates with observer Estimates wind
9. Decides engagement priorities Backs up marksman’s shot
10. Engages human and material targets Operates radio
11. Records information
12. Coordinates other teams
13. Operates diversionary devices

Due to liability, police snipers do not rotate weapons. Each marksman/observer should have a rifle assigned exclusively to himself. The marksmen/observers must also rotate/rest/share, or they won’t be able to last during a long-term engagement. Most marksman shots are fired only after all viable options have been expended. 

Marksman/Observer Selection 

What does one look for in Marksman/Observer candidates? Being a good marksman involves three main skills; – marksmanship (duh), fieldcraft, and tactics. The candidate should have experience, interest, or a demonstrated aptitude within at least one of these areas. Training will round out the other two remaining skills. 

Marksmanship 

When it comes to marksmanship, the candidate should be at least an expert rifleman. He had better like shooting, because to hone and maintain marksman-level skills he must shoot frequently. The candidate should have an interest in firearms and technical subjects beyond the common layman, a natural curiosity about things like ballistics, bullets, and optics.
Hunting experience is especially useful because the sniper candidate already will have learned the consequences of inaccuracy or sluggish reflexes. 

Fieldcraft 

Fieldcraft includes skills such as wind estimation, camouflage, and observation. Hunters of elusive game can become excellent marksman, but may not ever have what it takes to become a sniper, there is a huge difference in a DM and a sniper. Bowhunters are also excellent candidates. Sportsman also learn to read the weather, see tracks in a natural setting, understand field maps, observe live game, and move to avoid being seen. 

Tactics 

An appreciation for tactics can only be developed through their study and application. Marksman must take the survival tactics that have been learned in basic training, police school and range training and build on it in a way that will benefit field operations. Extracurricular study of military tactics is also advantageous and is encouraged for all candidates. The marksmans ability to hide from and deceive the enemy is paramount to a successful mission. 

Sniper Operations: 

Overall Mission of the Cover Element

1. Establish an inner perimeter to contain the threat. Containing the threat to one location will hopefully expedite its resolution and prevent additional persons from hindering or becoming involved in the operation.

2. Cover the movement of an entry team. The inner perimeter personnel provide security for the entry team as they move into position for an entry should an entry become necessary.

3. Provide intelligence attained to assist the tactical team in their primary goal of saving lives. While on the perimeter you become the eyes and ears for the tactical team as they conduct their planning elsewhere. Any information regarding the situation, activity, descriptions, etc. should be passed forward to assist in planning and decision making. 

4. Eliminate a High Value Target (HVT)

Tactical Considerations of the Cover Element 

Equipment:

All items necessary for prolonged operations should be taken into positions upon initial employment. Consider the time and effort spent moving into the area undetected, then having to leave the area to get something which was forgotten. The more movement, the greater the chance of detection. 

Radios: – 

Ensure extra batteries are available. Also have frequencies and call-signs for all necessary communications during the operation, and are capable of being operated as near to silent as possible

Night observation devices:

–Ideal for some situations. Extra batteries are a priority. 

Movement: 

Cover and concealment:

The shortest route usually is not the best route. Use terrain and/or existing structures for protection 

Avoid detection:

We never know what effect our presence may have on a suspect. If it might have an adverse effect, don’t be seen. 

Suspect (enemy) vs. Sector:

Both members of the team must be aware of their priorities when the suspect is in the sights.

Sniper’s responsibility:

The sniper will maintain target acquisition on the greatest threat. 

Observer’s responsibility:

The observer will monitor other suspect(s) or hostage(s), movement of the entry team, and the rest of the sector, and be ready to provide fire support himself if the need arises.

Planning and Tactical Setup: 

Avenues of Approach 

Once the Sniper Teams have been assigned or chosen their position, they must then consider routes that will take them to that location. 

The following is a list of those considerations: 

1. Avoid moving directly through or on the subjects position
2. Utilize terrain that offers good cover and concealment. Cover is protection from small arms fire. Concealment is protection from subject observation.
3. Use terrain which will allow you movement during the hours of darkness. Try to avoid rocky areas or areas of heavy vegetation.
4. Don’t automatically dismiss difficult terrain. This may be your best choice of approach in terms of cover and concealment, especially during daylight movement.
5. Avoid silhouetting yourself. Stay off skyline and low on rooftops.
6. Avoid areas that may afford the subject a field of fire on you. Such as open, flat areas, (i.e. open fields or playgrounds).
7. Stay within the perimeter. This will prevent contact with locals and the media.
8. Plan an alternate approach in the event that your primary cannot be navigated. 

Detection

You need to keep in mind who could be watching you. Two ways that you can be detected are:
a. Direct Observation, and Indirect Observation
b. Direct Observation 

In order for the subject to shoot you, they must have an idea of where you are. The subject may have access to binoculars or other sight enhancing items. A telephoto lens on a camera will work well. 

Indirect Observation 

Television - This might be a media event, so be aware of cameras.
Night Vision - Hope that your adversary does not have access to this technology.
Smell - The subject may detect your odor, so don’t wear cologne.
Sound - Remember that the subject can hear you approaching if your noise discipline is poor. 

Concealment and Cover 

The best way to avoid detection is by utilizing concealment and cover. There are six factors which will give you protection from subject observation. 

They are: 

Shape - From any distance your outline will give you away. Change you shape to match that of your surroundings. 

Shadow - Stay in the shadows and don’t allow your own to be seen. When it comes to your position, only you and your shadow should know. 

Shine (or texture) - Beware of smooth surfaces such as watches, weapon barrel, glasses. Smooth surfaces are areas that reflect light. 

Color - Blend in with your surroundings. Bright colors attract unwanted attention.

Position or Setting - When choosing your position, make it appear as though nothing is out of the ordinary. 

Movement - Motion naturally attracts the eye. Even a little movement at an inopportune time will warrant attention. 

Rules for Day Movement 

1. Movement must be slow and well planned.
2. Avoid disturbing animals such as dogs and birds.
3. Take advantage of noise such as wind, rain, or vehicles moving.
4. Cross roads which provide the most cover and/or concealment. Use ditches and wood lines. Attempt to minimize the amount of time you are in the open. 

Rules for Night Movement 

a. Move by bounds. Stop, listen, then move again.
b. Take advantage of other noises.
c. Avoid running. This causes noise and increases anxiety.
d. Preserve night vision. Don’t look at lights.
e. Avoid silhouetting..
f. Avoid dry brush and tape loose equipment. 

Thanks to Bender for some of the information.

Personal Camouflage and Concealment

    Camouflage is anything you use to keep yourself, your equipment and position from looking like what they are. Personal camouflage has certain simple rules that will defeat the most obvious sensor on the battlefield; the human eye. 


Shape. 

Your helmet, load bearing web equipment, rifle and other gear have a clear, often square shape, and there are no squares in nature. Break up straight lines with strips of burlap, camo cloth or netting in shades of brown and green. Elastic bands can be sewn to your uniform or equipment straps to facilitate adding camo strips or vegetation. Camo materials should not be attached to your rifle in areas where they may slip and interfere with your firm grip or the mechanical operation of the weapon. It is better to cover the weapon with paint or camouflage tape. 
 
Shine. 

Most modern military equipment uses plastic or subdued painted metal fasteners and buckles. If the paint has worn off or you are using commercial equipment with shiny buckles, these need to be covered with paint or tape. 

Other shiny surfaces that can reflect light include binoculars, compasses, watch crystals, plastic map covers and eyeglasses. Little can be done about eyeglasses other than using headgear with a low brim or mosquito netting, but other shiny equipment should be stowed away when not needed and used with caution. Shine also includes skin, even at night when it will reflect moonlight and flares. 

Silhouette. 

Similar in many respects to shape, silhouette includes the outline of the human form and the equipment it is carrying. The shape of the head and shoulders of a man are unmistakable and a bare helmet attracts attention. The use of local vegetation as garnishing helps break up your silhouette. Thick handfuls of grass tucked into your shoulder straps are especially useful in breaking up the distinctive "head and shoulders" shape of the human figure and vegetation added to a helmet breaks the smooth curve of the top and the line of the brim. 
Take care not to overdo adding local vegetation. You shouldn't need a machete to hack a path through your camouflage to get at your ammo pouch or other necessary equipment. Also, a large bush or tree is sure to attract attention when it starts to move. 

Silhouette also includes field craft. However well camouflaged you may be, it is little help if you "sky line" yourself by walking along the top of a hill or ridge line, or if you stand against a background of one solid color. 

Smell. 

Even the most urbanized man will develop a good sense of smell after a few days in the open. He will be able to detect engine smells, cooking, body odors and washing. Some smells are hard to minimize. Soaps should be scent-free and activities such as cooking should be confined to daylight hours when other smells are stronger and the air warmer. Rubbish from cooking should be carried away from your operational area and buried only as a second choice. Buried objects are often dug up by animals and can give a good indication of the strength and composition of your patrol or unit as well as its morale. The discipline of refuse removal is important. 

Sound. 

You can make a lot of noise while out on patrol. Your boots can squeak. Your cleaning kit or magazines can rattle in your ammo pouches. Heavy pack frames can creak. 

Fittings on your weapon can rattle. Radios can have background noise. Coughing and talking can carry for long distances, especially at night. You must become familiar with a silent routine in which hand signals replace the spoken word and conversations are conducted in a whisper. 

Proper stowage of your gear, taping of slings and other noisy equipment and a final shakedown before a patrol moves out will reduce noise. If digging a position, place sentries far enough out that they will spot an enemy before he hears the sound of digging. 

Color. 

Though most modern combat uniforms are in a disruptive pattern camouflage, there may be times when this is less helpful. The trouble with camo clothing is that in the wrong environment, like cities, it stands out and says "Hey, look at me!" If fighting in built-up areas, a pattern of greys, browns and dull reds would be more useful than the typical woodland BDU pattern. 

Natural vegetation used to garnish helmets and equipment will fade and change color. Leaves will dry and curl up exposing pale under surfaces. You may have put dark green ferns and leaves into your helmet band while in the woods and then find yourself moving through an area of pale open grassland. Check and change your camouflage regularly. 

The most obvious color that needs camouflaging is that of human skin, and for that you need G.I. camo stick or, preferably, a commercial camo cream. G.I. camo sticks are issued in loam and light green for use in areas with green vegetation. A sand and light green stick is used in areas lacking green vegetation. A loam and white stick is for use in snow covered terrain. If camo sticks or creme are not available use burnt cork, bark or charcoal for the dark color and mud for the light color. 

Dark colors are used to reduce the highlights formed by the nose, cheek bones, chin, ears and forehead. Lighter colors are used in areas of shadow under the eyes, nose and chin. When applying camo to your face it is useful to work with a buddy and help each other. G.I. camo sticks are rough on the skin and difficult to apply. A few drops of baby oil, skin lotion or insect repellent rubbed on the skin first will make it much easier to apply. Skin camo needs to be periodically touched-up as you move and sweat. A simple pattern for the face is to apply a light color first to the entire face and then add dark diagonal stripes. The diagonals cut though and break up the horizontal and vertical lines of the eyes nose and mouth. 

Good camouflage is almost as important as good marksmanship. A well camouflaged man who is a poor shot will probably survive longer than the poorly concealed expert sniper.

The Tactical Patriot Online Store

Hey guys and gals, since I have been doing this blog, and my Facebook stuff, I have found that there is a need for good sources of gear and equipment for my fellow patriots. So in response to this need, we have decided to open up an Amazon online store for all of your tactical needs.

We will carry everything from: Chest rigs to Uniforms, Boots to Hats, MOLLE gear to Knives, and every thing we can find to list. This should become your go to source for all things tactical.

Patriots, Oathkeepers, III%ers, Militia, Paintball, Airsoft, Survivalists, and many more will find this store to have what they need. We will constantly be adding new products, so check back often, and please support this patriot owned business.

Thank you for your support.


The Tactical Patriot Store

Defeating Shine

Defeating Shine   

The shine from binoculars, scopes, infrared viewers, watches, night vision goggles, and even individual sun, wind, dust goggles (SWDGs) can give away your presence, especially in the open expanse of the desert, and draw enemy fire. 

Glint from an officer's binoculars gave away the Confederate attack at Gettysburg, killed the German Army's top sniper in WWII, cost an Israeli general an eye, and allowed a Marine gunnery sergeant to take out the Viet Cong's top sniper. 

Visiting paratroopers from the former Soviet Union said recently that looking for reflections from our optics was a major scouting tactic in the Cold War. And during major U.S. Army exercises, at least one scout helicopter is usually assigned the sole mission of looking for optic reflections from ground forces.

You can shield binoculars by cupping your fingers around the outer lenses. But you can't cup your fingers around a weapon scope or around the SWDGs you're wearing or resting on your helmet. 

A field expedient solution is to make lens covers from a pair of women's brown nylon pantyhose, preferably a pair with the thicker nylon in the upper part. this technique will give you immediate camouflage for your optics while preserving their normal use. Another technique is to take OD green duct tape, and tape across the lenses, leaving only a 1/4 inch slit with which to look through.

FOR BINOCULARS AND SCOPES:

1. Cut off the ends (toes).
2. Stretch fabric over the lenses.
3. Secure with a rubber band and tape.

FOR THE SWDG LENS:

1. Lay the lens on the thicker nylon.
2. Outline shape with a pen and cut out.
3. Stretch fabric over the lens as you return it to the frame, leaving a little overhang.
4. When lens is back in place, trim excess nylon from inside the goggles. 

Reference: INFANTRY magazine, March-April, 1995. SWAP SHOP: OPTICAL CAMOUFLAGE
By Mike Sparks, USARNG, Redford, NC

Escape and Evasion

Short Term Escape & Evasion

You are on the run behind enemy lines with just the contents of your escape tin and the clothes you stand in, what should you do?

British fighter and helicopter pilots, Special Forces operatives and other specialists who are likely to be shot down or ambushed deep behind enemy lines receive excellent training in Escape and Evasion (E&E) procedures. Indeed this training is so good that selected operatives, soldiers and airmen from friendly nations are also often to be found on these courses.

However, it is not just the fast jet jockey and winged dagger trooper who could find themselves in the role of unwelcome guest behind enemy lines, being hotly pursued by a hunter killer force. Once the shooting starts, at any time it could happen to YOU.

1] Your unit has been decimated after being surrounded by the enemy, but you have managed to escape.

2] Your defensive position has been overrun by the enemy but you have survived and must get away before they start mopping-up.

3] Your patrol becomes lost behind enemy lines.

4] You have accidentally strayed through the enemy front line.

5] You have broken out from a POW holding area behind the battlefield

6] You have managed to escape from a POW camp further into occupied territory.

7] You are on a peace-keeping mission when your unit is taken hostage or ambushed and all are captured except yourself.

The list is endless, but ask yourself honestly these two questions. If I found myself in any of the above situations, would I know exactly what my very first move should be? And then, as the minutes tick by, what should I do next?

Now you are probably thinking that you should start water gathering, building a shelter and instituting all the other 'surviving in the wilds' skills. Wrong! Long term evaders such as downed pilots, or escapees from permanent POW camps deep inside enemy territory, may need to travel for weeks or even months before reaching friendly territory, so 'wild' survival skills are very important For them. However, only a very few soldiers ever become long term evaders.

Most Escape and Evasion (E&E) in any conflict is short term, lasting anything from about one hour up to 48 hours.

What is most important in short term evasion is to understand the few basic rules of E&E based around anti-capture and anti tracking techniques. Without this knowledge, the chances are that you will be shot, taken prisoner or recaptured very quickly.

If you don't understand the fundamental anti-tracking skills, the chances are that you will not be able to use your survival skills without tipping off the enemy. So it is important that you learn the basic ground rules of short term escape and evasion first.

The Escape Phase

Rule 1 - Escape Quickly

1st Rule - Escape Quickly

This is the first and most important rule of E&E and can be applied to many different situations. In this case, Escape Rule 1 refers to the period immediately after capture by the enemy. You must escape at the first opportunity because:

a] The longer you remain in captivity, the more thoroughly you will be searched
b] The longer you remain a prisoner, the further you will be sent behind enemy lines.
c] Your captors will very probably be front line combat troops. These soldiers will likely have neither the interest, the time, nor the training in handling POWs. The longer you remain in captivity, the greater the chance of being sent to a secure POW camp with guards who have been specially trained in preventing escapes.
d] Once incarcerated in a purpose built POW camp, the rules of E&E will change drastically (to be covered in a future article).

2nd Rule - Don't Talk

Being captured by an enemy is a severe psychological shock, even for experienced soldiers. Only those who have experience of such an event can appreciate the desire to talk to captors, sometimes without being able to stop. You must steel yourself from the very first moment of captivity to say as little as possible. Under the Geneva Convention you are expected to give your name, rank, number and date of birth (this allows the Red Cross to hopefully keep track of your movements and health condition as well as to notify your next of kin that you have survived) but resist the desire to say anything else.

3rd Rule - Be The Grey Man

After capture, most soldiers adopt one of two attitudes. They either try to appeal to their captors by smiles and other friendly gestures, or they show defiance by scowling, cursing or exhibiting signs of aggression. Do neither!

You must attract as little attention from your captors or jailers as possible. This will prevent you from being singled out for interrogation, when you will be under closer guard, and will greatly help your chances of escape.

To play the grey man, stand or sit motionless with head slightly bowed. Avoid eye contact, but if forced to look at the enemy, focus on your opponent's forehead and show no emotion. Speak only if spoken to.

The Evasion Phase

This most important Escape Rule also applies to the Evasion Phase. You may have just escaped from POW custody, be the surviving member of an ambushed patrol or have been overlooked as enemy assault troops overran your position.

In any of these situations, you could be captured at any moment. You must now travel as far and as fast as you can. The further you escape from your last point of contact with the enemy, the wider the arc or area the hunter-killer force will need to search for you and the greater the area that tracker dogs may have to cover to pick up your scent.

Rule 2 - Evade In Pairs

The larger the evading group is, the easier it will be to track down. If possible, try and break down into pairs as this could split up the team tracking you or even leave them all tracking just one spoor. In most situations, two heads are better than one and when rest becomes a necessity, one can remain on guard while the other sleeps.

Rule 3 -Assume You Are Being Hunted

An evader has a very limited view of events around him and it's very easy to assume that he has given the enemy the slip. Often this is a mistaken view. Besides which, always assuming you are being hunted focuses the mind and this should lead to you making less mistakes.

Rule 4 - Carry A Compass

The sensible soldier will always carry a mini-compass in his Survival Tin plus one hidden in his clothing. This is one of the most treasured E&E possessions. To allow for all eventualities though, learn to make an emergency compass by magnetizing a needle and sitting it on a free floating leaf on water. Practice now as you won't get time when you are an evader.

Rule 5 - Make Or Get A Map

Maps are important. Before a mission make a simple map on a sheet of paper from your waterproof notepad. Show just the basic routes, roads, rivers and major topographical features, then sew it into your uniform.

If captured, while awaiting escape, make a rudimentary map by drawing on the inside of your clothing as this will greatly aid your navigation plans. Once on the run, acquire a better one- search bodies and deserted buildings and, particularly in an urban environment, look inside vehicles or even check out phone boxes

Rule 6 - Ignore The Hay Barn

Don't assume the 'Hay Barn' mentality. In other words, never hide in obvious places. The barn on the hill will look tempting refuge with hide, but this is also the first place the hunter force will search.

Rule 7 - Become a Magpie

Never pass-by anything that could be of use. a discarded bin liner or even a plastic fertilizer bag can make an emergency waterproof over garment.An abandoned steel helmet, not too common in these days of composites, makes a good cooking pot but look out for any metal container that will do this job and also transport drinking water.

Rule 8 - Camouflage Your Tracks

You must camouflage signs that you have passed, and especially your footprints, from man trackers. This is because the most common form of track to find and easiest to follow is the markings you leave on the ground-known as ground spoor. an even better find for an experienced tracker is a full boot print (a confirmed spoor) from which he will be able to tell how fast you are moving, how tired you are and much more information on you.

With a consecutive pair of prints he can tell how fast you are traveling, what distance you are covering and even if you are carrying a load. Despite your boot probably having the same tread pattern as the rest of the guys in your unit, individual wear marks and tread damage make your boots as individual as your fingerprints. No wonder trackers call full bootprints a confirmed spoor.

Consequently, avoid walking on soft muddy ground. Instead try to find hard, rocky surfaces. Remember, though, not to disturb loose rocks as these would give a tracker recognizable, though less useful, ground spoor.

Of course there will be times when you have no choice but to walk on soft or muddy ground, so remember the following techniques. They may only temporarily confuse trackers, but they may gain you valuable time.

a) Often there are harder ridges on either side of well used, soft, muddy paths. Walk legs astride on these ridges.
b) Step carefully into existing footprints.
c) Walk backwards or on tiptoe.
d) Walk in a stream. Remember not to leave scuff marks or other ground spoor on the bank as you enter or leave the stream.

Rule 9 -Don 't Leave Aerial Spoor

Spoor above the ground or overhead may not be as easy to spot as ground spoor, but a good tracker will find it nevertheless.

a) Don't break branches in your way - gently bend them aside.
b) If you can't bend it, go under, over or around it.
c) If you snag or tear clothing, don't be in such a hurry. Check to see that you have not left a small piece of cloth or telltale fibers behind you.

Rule 10 - Don't Leave Scent

Tracker dogs follow the microscopic body scent particles that continually fall from your body and settle on or just above the ground.Their remarkably sensitive noses will follow your previous route as accurately as if you could draw the dog a map. Even so, there are ways to slow down,confuse and even defeat tracker dogs.

a) Use a vehicle or even a bicycle. This will not only break the scent chain, but will put you further ahead of the pack much quicker and with less fatigue.
b) On foot, follow an erratic path through tangled undergrowth. This usually tangles the running lead of the dog and its handler, slowing them down.
c) Use well traveled animal or human trackways. Even better, follow an erratic path through a farmyard, as a large collection of new scent may temporarily confuse the dog and hinder progress.
d) When you reach water, don't just cross it. Walk in running water for a short distance before exiting on a part of the bank where your spoor will not show.
e) If you can only find narrow waterways such as ditches, with still water in them, walk in them but cross diagonally, doubling back on yourself at least once to confuse the dog.
f) If practical, wash regularly, but never use anything scented.
g) If you cannot wash, roll around over the ground you are traversing, to add country scents to your own. However, remember that a man who has rolled in a dung heap smells just like a man who has rolled in a dung heap, to a well trained tracker dog with a good nose.
h) Don't allow yourself to come in contact with strongly smelling substances such as smoke or animal droppings. If an article of clothing becomes contaminated and you have to discard it, make sure you bury it, or better still hide it under rocks in a stream. Now wash hair and skin. if also contaminated.
i) Try to outrun the dogs. A tracker dog has to move comparatively slowly so, as stated before, escape as quickly as possible.

Rule 11 - Camouflage Your Identity

It should almost go without saying, that you practice the basic rules of camouflage and concealment when resting, laying-up, approaching a dangerous area, etc. You should also practice camouflage and deception when traveling.

a) Avoid busy or populated areas and keep your distance from any civilians you see.
b) Don't act suspiciously or appear to be nervous as this wilt attract attention.
c) Never walk in an upright, military fashion-adopt a tired slouch.
d) Try to at least keep the appearance of being clean and keep shaving if you can.
e) If traveling in countryside, carry a spade or some other farming implement.
f) Keep your uniform on underneath any civilian clothing as otherwise you could be shot for being a spy.
g) Keep your watch in your pocket.
h) If approached by the locals, unless you speak and look like a native of the area, pretend to be deaf and dumb or perhaps even half-witted. The latter often works.

Rule 12 - Disguise Your Hide.

Sooner or later you will need to lay-up or rest. Again, leave no traces of your presence.

It is a good idea to rest for 5-10 minutes in every hour that you travel. Don't just stop anywhere though. Choose an area of good cover and try to leave no trace of your LUP (Laying Up Point).

A longer LUP occurs when you sleep. lie facing the ground, and if you have a ground sheet or something similar, cover yourself with it. This should concentrate your scent in one place. Before you leave, cover your sleeping area with soil and natural debris to mask the scent.

Always bury any food waste, camp fire debris, feces, urine or anything connected with your stay. Try not to contaminate your skin with waste material. Finally, cover disturbed soil with natural debris. Waste on the surface will attract flies in warm weather and will be easily spotted by human trackers, and a dog's nose will pick up the scent a long way off.

Rule 13 - Disguise Your Fire

Opinions vary as to exactly when you are safe enough to light a fire. However, sometimes it is crucial to purify food or water by cooking or boiling,to provide warmth to prevent hypothermia.

If you have to light a fire, ideally you should dig a fire pit deep enough to hide the flames. Try not to make the fire too big and ensure that flames to not show above ground. Use only small pieces of fuel.

Dig a separate air shaft at an angle to the pit as this will make the fire burn quicker and prevent excessive smoke. If the ground is too hard to dig, is too waterlogged, or a fire pit is impractical for some other reason, light the fire under a canopy of leafy foliage to disperse smoke. Alternatively, light a surface fire against a high wall.

Above all else, when Escaping and Evading, DO IT QUICKLY and DO IT CAREFULLY

Q (Taken from Combat And Survival Magazine Volume 10 Issue 4 July 1998, an excellent magazine written mostly for the British Army. However, many of it's articles are relevant to our present and future predicaments)

Remain Over Night

Or more commonly known as a RON, here are some of the basics, and some great information regarding them.

RON - Remain overnight position
by Tom Sawyer

1. Typical situations that require planning for the establishment of a RON include those where there will be a requirement to:

a. To cease all movement during daylight hours to avoid detection;
b. To provide a base of operation from which further patrols can be launched;
c. To rest and re-org after extended movement or operations; and
d. To re-org after a patrol has infiltrated the enemy in small groups (link up point).

2. Considerations: Planning for a RON must include considering the actions of the mission; ie: Located so as to enable the Patrol to best accomplish its mission, and both passive and active security measures:

Passive Security Measures include:

3. Avoid built up areas;
4. Avoid open woods and clearings;
5. Select an area away from all inhabitants;
6. Avoid known or suspected enemy locations;
7. Select terrain which would be considered of little tactical value;
8. Avoid ridge lines, crests, valleys, lakes and streams;
9. Select terrain suitable for radio communications;
10. Select steep terrain, ravines, or other such areas that would impede foot movement;
11. Avoid all roads and trails;
12. Select areas with dense vegetation, that provide cover from ground and air;

Active Security Measures include:

1. Establish an OP/LP system covering all likely approaches;
2. Establish communications with OP/LPs for early warning;
3. Select an Alternate RON;
4. Use chain of command to enforce light, noise and cam Discipline;
5. Organize the elements of the patrol so that the necessary activities can take place with a minimum of movement; and
6. Establish a percentage alert plan.

A RON is a position established when a patrol halts for an extended period (usually overnight). When in an area not protected by friendly troops, maximum security measures must be taken to protect the patrol.

Activities in a RON are similar to an assembly area, but should be kept to a minimum. A RON is normally planned off a map but could be established with an on?the?spot decision in some circumstances. A RON is occupied for the minimum time necessary to accomplish the purpose for which it was established. It will not be more than 48 hours and never use the same RON twice.

Detachment/Section Size: Occupation at det/sect size will be by force. That is to say when the patrol commander sees a suitable location he will occupy it using this procedure:

7. 200m minus tentative RON, prepare to conduct a "dog leg" maneuver into RON, (any maneuver can be used to get into the RON (i.e. fishhook etc.);
8. Once a suitable location is found, stop 10-15 minute listening halt;
9. Carry on with RON activities;

Section Size Plus:

a. In a recce platoon there may be two requirements for a RON of this size:

(1) One method of occupying a RON is used when a full compliment of platoon is available and a RON (whether fighting or recce) is required by that platoon, and
(2) Another method would be a tasking, to recce and secure a RON for an outside unit. In this case, there may be a requirement for additional manpower. This depends on the amount of RONs required for the task, ie., 3 platoon-sized RONs for a company fighting patrol.

Sequence of Occupation Section Plus:

10. Drill used for occupation is one of many set methods;
11. The drill you will be taught is derived from many sources and when combined is the most thorough and operationally sound;
12. This drill is established to both teach you, and standardize a method;
13. As experienced NCO’s, some alterations may be made to suit the men, experience, but most important, the mission. The sequence is:
14. Patrol commander halts 200m from tentative RON (site was chosen from map);
15. Patrol 2IC moves forward on order;
16. Long halt issued, patrol commander issues 2IC a 5-pt contingency plan containing:

a. Who is going by name;
b. What you will be doing;
c. Where you are going (by bearing/distance);
d. How long you will be gone;
e. What to do if:
- Do not return;
- If patrol commander's party comes under fire;
- If main party comes under fire.

17. Patrol commander, signaler, navigator, A & D security teams move to dog leg;
18. 1 man D sec remains at dog leg with 5 pt contingency plan; Patrol commander and party continue to RON;
19. Once they have arrived at the RON, A sec must clear the area:

a. The patrol commander, navigator, and signaler stay at the 6 o'clock position;
b. The group from A security make the clearance of the area using a box search method;
c. Once the area has been secured, A security marks the outer limits of the RON with one man at each corner using a flashlight or a glow stick at the center of each segment of the base;
d. The patrol commander ensures that the 12 o’clock point of the base faces the direction of travel; and
e. The patrol commander issues a 5-pt contingency plan to the commander A sec, who stays at the 6 o’clock position during the patrol commanders absence.

20. He returns to the dog leg (unchallenged), drops off 2nd man from D sec and leaves 5 pt contingency plan;
21. Patrol commander picks up the patrol, leads them through the dog leg (unchallenged) to the RON through 6 o'clock;
22. Patrol commander and signaler, move to center. D security remains at the dog leg for 30 minutes and then moves into the patrol base;
23. All elements move into position using 12 and 6 o'clock as a guide. Once in position, a 10-minute listening halt is observed;
24. After 10 min listening halt, the patrol 2IC dispatches B & C security to do an area search (by day only and if terrain permits). 2IC then dispatches LP’s;
25. After 30 minutes, element commanders go to HQ and receive orders. Platoon commander issues orders to include:

a. Alternate RON, bearings, distance, terrain features;
b. Alternate plan/stand-to policy;
c. Evacuation plan/code-words to move out and RVs;
d. Priority of work:
- Security OPs/LPs, early warning devices, claymores, etc;
- Weapon maintenance;
- Water plan;
- Hygiene;
- Food;
- Rest, and;
- Re-supply.

NOTE: A circular or triangular RON may be used. The method of occupation is the same, except for the following

26. When occupying a triangular RON, rucksacks or mini chem lights could be used to mark the corners of the RON, or if you have enough personnel; one man at each corner;
27. When conducting area sweep, security elements at each corner would conduct the sweep, moving clockwise to the next corner and then simply moving back to their original position.
The use of OP/LPs and/or sentries and their proper organization is a most important part of the RON. OP/LPs are established ASAP and should be far enough from the perimeter so that noise from the base cannot be heard. Prior to leaving they must receive the following info:
28. Arcs and christening of ground;
29. Location of other OP/LPs in the area; 31. Early warning systems (physical or radio);
32. Time of change from OP to LP (OP’s become LPs at night) LP’s shift closer to main base;
33. Known and suspected enemy approaches;
34. Challenging procedures/passwords;
35. Action on sighting enemy-Rules of engagement;
36. Route from and to RON site; and
37. States of readiness.
Prior to leaving the OP/LPs must:
38. Ensure they have sufficient food and water;
39. Make a radio check and take sufficient batteries;
40. A PTT switch code is established in case of close proximity to the enemy makes verbal communications impossible;
41. If more than one, time out and in must be the same; and
42. Have all their equipment and know location of alternate RV, RON and bearings; and Sentries will be required in and around the RON if OP/LPs are not required. The same routine applies for them except they are just outside the patrol perimeter.

Operation and Routine in a RON (Priority of Work):

Security: If the base is occupied longer than overnight and a majority of the force is out operating away from the base, sufficient troops must remain to give it adequate protection. Every man must be armed at all times. Men must never move on their own outside the base ? always at least in pairs:

43. Only one point of entry and exit is used. This point is cammoed and guarded at all times;
44. Minimum movement, both inside and outside the RON;
45. Civilians who discover the loc of the RON are detained until the base is moved or until they can be evacuated to higher HQ, as appropriate. Care is taken to ensure that detained civilians learn as little as possible about the base, its OP, and future plans. If necessary, they are tied and blindfolded and their ears covered;
46. When sufficient personnel are available, OP’s are manned by at least two individuals so they can alternate and ensure alertness at all times;
47. LPs are always manned by at least two, preferably three individuals so they too can alternate and remain alert without back and forth movement; and
48. A 1 hr stand to is observed morning and evening; 30 minutes before and 30 minutes after light in the morning, and 30 minutes before and 30 minutes after dark in the evening. This ensures that every man is acclimated to changing light conditions, and is dressed, equipped and ready for action.
Defense: Defensive measures are planned but a RON is usually defended only when evacuation is not possible:
49. Elaborate firing positions are not constructed;
50. Camo and concealment is highly stressed;
51. Artillery and mortar fire may be planned, if available. Early warning devices may be placed on avenues of approach. If the base definitely will be defended, mines, trip flares and booby traps may be placed on avenues of approach and in areas that cannot be covered by fire. The value of these devices must be weighed against the fact that their discovery automatically compromises the RON; and
52. An alert plan is established. This includes plans for evacuation and defense. All members must know these plans and the signals or orders for their implementation.
Communications: Communications are established with higher patrols, subordinate units, OP’s and LP’s. The system must provide for every man to be alerted quickly and quietly:
53. Radios are an excellent means, but must be carefully controlled;
54. Wire can be used within the RON if its bulk, weight and the time required to lay and pick up are not disadvantages;
55. Tug or pull wires may be used for signaling. They are quiet and reduce radio and phone traffic; and
d. Messengers may be used within the RON.

Maintenance: Weapons and equipment are cleaned and maintained as required, controlled by sect/det commanders and platoon WO.

Sanitation and Personal Hygiene:

56. In daylight, cat sanitation is used outside the perimeter. The user must be guarded;
57. At night, cat sanitation is used inside the perimeter;
58. Men wash, shave and brush their teeth as needed, consistent with the situation (including availability of water);
59. Cans, food and other trash are taken with you when you depart; 60. Messing: Men eat at staggered times, as planned and controlled. Preparation is planned, if required, to include preparation of future meals.

Water: Guarded water parties provide water. Individuals do not visit the water source. No more than two visits to the source are made in a 24?hr period. Use of water is controlled as closely as required.

Rest: Rest and sleep are permitted only after all work has been accomplished. Rest periods are staggered so that proper security is maintained. Consistent with work and security requirements, each man is scheduled to get as much sleep and rest as possible.

Resupply: If the patrol is to be re-supplied by air, the flight path, drop and/or LZ and caches are located so that neither the base nor possible objectives are compromised.

Planning and Conduct of OP’s:

61. Details of OP’s planned must be made known to all men with out assembling all one time and thus endangering the security of the base. Rehearsals are limited to terrain models, with portions rehearsing while the remainder of the patrol provides security. Weapons are not test fired;
62. If part of the patrol is absent on an OP, the perimeter is adjusted, if necessary, to ensure security; and
63. Orders are as brief as possible. Maximum practical use is made of fragmentary orders and references to SOPs.
Security Plan: In case of attack the patrol commander must plan the following:
64. Routes out of the base depending on the direction of attack;
65. Establish an RV and alternate RON known to all in case of dispersion after attack;
66. A plan for a fighting withdrawl ? dependent upon likely enemy approaches and his own strength; and
67. Often the occasion will arise when smaller patrols will be sent out for numerous reasons. The following is the routine for leaving and returning to the RON:

Leaving: Identical to the normal dispatch except any excess personnel equipment left behind is placed outside the perimeter along the patrol departure route. The exact location specified so that if the RON must be changed while personnel are absent, they will not lose the equipment. Ensure it is well cammoed. Upon return, their equipment is recovered by the patrol and they carry on to the alternate RON and the commander dispatching patrols ensures they leave at the same time to minimize movement around the gap.

Returning: The need for maintaining alertness when returning to a base must be stressed. Should the enemy make a practice of ambushing returning patrols the RV system can be adopted. The RV system allows returning patrols to move to a pre?determined RV outside the area of the RON. At this RV, an ambush is sited which is manned by personnel from the RON. In the event of en action during the absence of the patrol, they are guided to the new base loc, and the ambush party remains at the RV for 30 minutes after the main patrols and then follow up to the RON.

When evacuating the RON certain considerations must be taken:

68. All signs of occupation should be obliterated; in particular, any tell?tale marks of the size of the force and the duration of occupation;
69. All shelters destroyed;
70. Extreme caution should be exercised when leaving the RON as you are extremely vulnerable to ambush; and
d. The Patrol 2IC is responsible to ensure the area is as clean as possible.

So there it is, I know it is a lot to take in, but it is some great information, that some day may be of great use to you. You never know what is going to happen, and knowledge is power!

The Aussie Peelback

Aussie Peelback

The peel, fade away or actually Aussie Peelback is not meant as method to engage the enemy. It is a means of extraction under contact. The firing off of a magazine on full auto is pure and utter garbage. ALL firing should be done with well-aimed shots or short bursts. The spray and pray method works fine for Hollywood but not in real life. The team members do not fire their weapons dry during the withdrawal but enough to keep momentum up during the action.

The drill we use is as follows;


1. Lead man comes under contact, drops to cover, and engages. Immediately the rest of the element splits left and right 2 paces. 


2. The lead man withdraws through the opening left giving the #2 man a slap on the shoulder as he passes indicating that the #2 mans arcs are clear, and so on through the element. 


3. When the #3 man hears the firing up front and after moving off the path he prepares a smoke or WP grenade, when he sees #1 move through #2 he throws the grenade and prepares his weapon to fire to cover #2 when he moves through.


4. The #4 man if so equipped prepares his Claymore or other IED and sets the fuse, when #3 has withdrawn through his position he fires and pulls the igniter. 


The #1 man will determine the length of each bound by setting up to cover each man as they pull back. After 1 or 2 bounds (depending on the terrain) the element moves into an extended line formation and conducts the withdrawal back to the last RV point by pairs fire and movement or can set up hasty ambushes on the enemy if they are still advancing. This drill takes a lot of practice to be done correctly.


With a 2 man element it is better to withdraw by bounds firing only enough rounds to keep the enemies heads down. Firing off of a full mag takes too much time and slows the rate of withdrawal down. The drill must be practiced to include wounded members and stoppages of weapons. 


Practice this tactic with your unit at your next FTX, it is a great tool to have in your tool bag of tactics.


Start out with  "Dry Fire" exercises. When you have the movement down, train using your primary weapon systems.

Personal Camouflage and Concealment

Here is a very important topic for when the SHTF. Plus it is just a good skill to know for many reasons like hunting.

Personal Camouflage and Concealment

Camouflage is anything you use to keep yourself, your equipment and position from looking like what they are. Personal camouflage has certain simple rules that will defeat the most obvious sensor on the battlefield; the human eye.

Shape

Your helmet, load bearing web equipment, rifle and other gear have a clear, often square shape, and there are no squares in nature. Break up straight lines with strips of burlap, camo cloth or netting in shades of brown and green. Elastic bands can be sewn to your uniform or equipment straps to facilitate adding camo strips or vegetation. Camo materials should not be attached to your rifle in areas where they may slip and interfere with your firm grip or the mechanical operation of the weapon. It is better to cover the weapon with paint or camouflage tape.

Shine

Most modern military equipment uses plastic or subdued painted metal fasteners and buckles. If the paint has worn off or you are using commercial equipment with shiny buckles, these need to be covered with paint or tape.
Other shiny surfaces that can reflect light include binoculars, compasses, watch crystals, plastic map covers and eyeglasses. Little can be done about eyeglasses other than using headgear with a low brim or mosquito netting, but other shiny equipment should be stowed away when not needed and used with caution. Shine also includes skin, even at night when it will reflect moonlight and flares.

Silhouette

Similar in many respects to shape, silhouette includes the outline of the human form and the equipment it is carrying. The shape of the head and shoulders of a man are unmistakable and a bare helmet attracts attention. The use of local vegetation as garnishing helps break up your silhouette. Thick handfuls of grass tucked into your shoulder straps are especially useful in breaking up the distinctive "head and shoulders" shape of the human figure and vegetation added to a helmet breaks the smooth curve of the top and the line of the brim. Take care not to overdo adding local vegetation. You shouldn't need a machete to hack a path through your camouflage to get at your ammo pouch or other necessary equipment. Also, a large bush or tree is sure to attract attention when it starts to move.
Silhouette also includes field craft. However well camouflaged you may be, it is little help if you "sky line" yourself by walking along the top of a hill or ridge line, or if you stand against a background of one solid color.

Smell

Even the most urbanized man will develop a good sense of smell after a few days in the open. He will be able to detect engine smells, cooking, body odors and washing. Some smells are hard to minimize. Soaps should be scent-free and activities such as cooking should be confined to daylight hours when other smells are stronger and the air warmer. Rubbish from cooking should be carried away from your operational area and buried only as a second choice. Buried objects are often dug up by animals and can give a good indication of the strength and composition of your patrol or unit as well as its morale. The discipline of refuse removal is important.

Sound

You can make a lot of noise while out on patrol. Your boots can squeak. Your cleaning kit or magazines can rattle in your ammo pouches. Heavy pack frames can creak.
Fittings on your weapon can rattle. Radios can have background noise. Coughing and talking can carry for long distances, especially at night. You must become familiar with a silent routine in which hand signals replace the spoken word and conversations are conducted in a whisper.
Proper stowage of your gear, taping of slings and other noisy equipment and a final shakedown before a patrol moves out will reduce noise. If digging a position, place sentries far enough out that they will spot an enemy before he hears the sound of digging.

Color

Though most modern combat uniforms are in a disruptive pattern camouflage, there may be times when this is less helpful. The trouble with camo clothing is that in the wrong environment, like cities, it stands out and says "Hey, look at me!" If fighting in built-up areas, a pattern of greys, browns and dull reds would be more useful than the typical woodland BDU pattern.

Natural vegetation used to garnish helmets and equipment will fade and change color. Leaves will dry and curl up exposing pale under surfaces. You may have put dark green ferns and leaves into your helmet band while in the woods and then find yourself moving through an area of pale open grassland.

Check and change your camouflage regularly. The most obvious color that needs camouflaging is that of human skin, and for that you need G.I. camo stick or, preferably, a commercial camo cream. G.I. camo sticks are issued in loam and light green for use in areas with green vegetation. A sand and light green stick is used in areas lacking green vegetation. A loam and white stick is for use in snow covered terrain. If camo sticks or crème are not available use burnt cork, bark or charcoal for the dark color and mud for the light color.

Dark colors are used to reduce the highlights formed by the nose, cheek bones, chin, ears and forehead. Lighter colors are used in areas of shadow under the eyes, nose and chin. When applying camo to your face it is useful to work with a buddy and help each other. G.I. camo sticks are rough on the skin and difficult to apply. A few drops of baby oil, skin lotion or insect repellent rubbed on the skin first will make it much easier to apply. Skin camo needs to be periodically touched-up as you move and sweat. The entire face, ears, neck and any other exposed skin must be covered to be effective.

Good camouflage is almost as important as good marksmanship. A well camouflaged man who is a poor shot will probably survive longer than the poorly concealed expert sniper.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Click here for all your prepping/tactical needs: The Tactical Patriot Store

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------